Friday, October 21, 2016

Painting Isorians: Phase One

Let's get things started off with some shaded basecoat!  For those who are not familiar with this concept, I have dozens of articles covering it, as well as many painting videos on USB drives.  Towards the end of this article, I will put a link or two to the main articles on this subject.

As always, I try to keep the colors as simple as possible, which is a major advantage of the shaded basecoat approach.  I will also be using the #8 round craft brushes.  You will see how durable and utilitarian these are!

The entire surface of the figure is covered as rapidly as possible, not worrying about 'lines' or edges.  I want to be able to add the subsequent layers of color while this is still wet, so working fast is a priority.  The bigger brushes also assist in this task.

The "shading" part of the shaded basecoat is done with these worn down #8 round brushes.  Take a look at the shape of the tip shown on the inset image, and how it looks more flat.  This is more like a filbert brush, which is perfect for getting these lighter layers applied rapidly.

Using the textures of the figure itself is very important.  I am trying to touch the lighter colors to the raised surfaces, but not with a drybrushing technique.  This is something I call damp brushing, where the brush still has a decent amount of paint in the bristles.

The brush is held at a very shallow angle to the figure, and it is dragged across the surface gently.  That will leave the lighter layers of paint where you want them, right along those upper edges.

Without cleaning the brush at all, progressively lighter layers are applied by adding more of the bright yellow to the mix.  The brush continues to hold that 'filbert' shape.

The shaded basecoat phase of the lighter parts of the color scheme are almost ready.  Keep in mind that the idea is to block in the lighter colors quickly, and then go back in with subsequent glazes and tinting to get the details in the shadows.

A blueish purple will be added over the top of the dark red of the shoulder armor plates, which will be lightened in a similar manner as the orange.

The main image and the inset show that more rapid fire application of light tones was added with the worn down #8 round brush.

There's a big difference between this figure and the finished one in the background... and this illustrates what the shaded basecoat allows you to do.  It's possible for me to not just darken the colors of the armor, but tint them in any way I need.

For example, I can use a variety of dark reddish glazes on this blue/purple to make it look more like that completed figure.  Instead of using a ton of different colors, and worrying about formulas and color mixes, I can "seek out" the darkness and tone of the colors more easily.

It gets even more fun as I add in the glowing colors, starting with the fluorescent paints.  

The fluorescent paint is very transparent, but it is also very thick.  This is a very unusual consistency for most people.  I added the lighter green color to make this more opaque, and help it flow a little better.  I will tone this down with glazing and tinting just like I will on the rest of the colors.

Stay tuned for part two, where all this glazing and tinting will be covered!

Here's a link to another shaded basecoat article:

Thursday, October 20, 2016

It takes a crew, Part 1

Here's the first crew member from the Sledgehammer gun from Victoria miniatures!

While the gun itself is hard plastic, the crew are in resin.  There is a mix of male and female crew... six in all.  The plotter is one of my favorites!

As I mentioned in the main post, I thought I would go with the early WW2 German Field Green on the coats.  With the gun carriage being grey, I thought this small 'splash' of color might be a good idea.

It would be fun to try the whole piece again and paint the gun in more of a camo scheme, putting some leaf clumps or even netting on it!

Stay tuned for the next crew feature...

Wednesday, October 19, 2016

Deadly Serpents

There are a number of Tomb Kings units which have not gotten their new sets of photos... including my Necro Knights!  I had a lot of fun painting these guys.  The bases, however, were by far my favorite element of the entire unit.

Most of you have see the other units from the Tomb Kings, such as the chariots and the skeletal horsemen.  I didn't do any conversion on these, which is the only unit in that category. :-)

There were a lot of tiny details on these, which made putting all the Tzeetch tainted colors on them more challenging.  As I have mentioned before, I didn't want to paint these in traditional Egyptian colors.  I saw other nicely painted Khmeri which were green or purple, so I felt like I had to go way outside the boundaries!

That's why you will see all the color variations, especially where there are 'metal' surfaces.  The idea was that once the Taint occurred, all of the gold armor turned to quicksilver, and essentially became every color of the rainbow!

I did the same glowing green weapons that I have on all the other units.

These views show you a little more of the base.  I have an entire article showing how this was painted:

I never took any individual shots of these guys, so I have been looking forward to these!!

This one was the unit champion.

I think they look even scarier off the movement tray!

Like all of may armies, magnetization is key!  The larger bases are not as easy to process, but it is well worth it.

They are also here:

Tuesday, October 18, 2016

Ready to drop the Hammer!!

Here's something massive!  It's the Sledgehammer artillery piece made by Victoria Miniatures.

It comes with six crew, including engineers, spotter, commander, and so on.  I believe that the artillery piece is hard plastic, which the crew is resin.

If you pin the crane, it wings in its cradle very nicely.  There are also a few shells and cases that come with the set.

I used a variety of Ammo oil paints to weather this giant gun.  The panel line washes and regular washes worked very well on the wheels and other hard to reach recess areas.  As you can see, there were a lot of those!  

Dealing with all the rivets was made easier as well, especially the large number of tightly packed rivets.  Oil paints have more capillary action than acrylic washes, making them ideal for this task.

Various heavy mud and splash effects made the lower sections of the artillery piece seem as if it belonged in its environment, as I used the same paints on the base too.

The view from above shows the aft deck of the gun, with the crane and shell holder along with the engineer elevating the muzzle.

Most of the pieces were painted separately, and then assembled after weathering, etc.  That made things a bit tricky, as I had to keep in mind what angle to do the shading, and where gravity might effect simple elements such as weathering.

The closer images will show you the streaking effects a little better.  I have some additional posts coming up with shots of the crew as well.

The crew really give you an indication of how big the gun and its carriage are!

Even though most of this is grey, I tried to get as many different shades and tones as possible.  Some areas were more blueish, others tinted more towards green.  I also used light flesh colors  on a few highlight areas to get a warmer grey.

This view shows you some of the leaf punch leaves on the deck of the gun, which gives it a little more interest with all the drab grey!

It was a lot of fun to paint the crew, as all Victoria Miniatures are. :-)

Stay tuned for much more on the individual crew!  And this will be shown live at Reapercon too... see ya there!!

Monday, October 17, 2016

Let's get Muddy!

Ammo mud products are not just for tanks!  I have been using them on "regular" infantry style figures as well.  Here's a quick article that shows how I used the oil base paints on a few early war German Heer infantry.

I started out with a lighter mud splash color, as dried mud tends to be lighter than fresh mud.  I have a regular stippling brush and a home made stippling brush that was made from one of my worn out #8 round craft brushes.

I did some test spatters on the palette, which also thinned down the spray before I applied that to the figure itself.

I tried to focus as much as possible on the boots, with less spatter above that line.  Also, since this is oil based, I will have time to smear these out a little, and even remove them entirely if I don't like the result!  This is one of the chief advantages that I have been enjoying with the Ammo products.

All four have been spattered, so I will go in and refine that application, smoothing out some spots that are too harsh or got into the wrong area.

The heavier mud is next.  Take a look at the inset to see how thick this is!  You will have to stir it from time to time, but using it frequently also helps a lot.

The heavy mud was not only for the figures... it was intended for the base as well.  This ties it to the figure, and gives one more interesting texture to the base.

In some cases, I also applied it lightly to the clothes.  This can be very effective on kneeling or prone figures to make them look like they have been in their environment!

I had a few leaves left over from the Green Stuff World leaf punch experiment, so I added a few of those into the wet mud.

The leaves have been placed in areas where I won't be putting any kind of foliage, just to add a little color interest to the base.  I can add more of less if I want.

I have a few different foliage tufts, which are from Gamer's Grass (Kings Hobbies and

I really love the added dimension that the bush tufts add to a base!

When we are back from Reapercon, I will take the finished photos, and do several more articles on this subject.  Stay tuned!!!